On a beach along the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, below a tropical forest, is the small sanctuary of Greystoke Mahale. The Mahale Mountains rise behind camp and is home to the world's largest known population of chimpanzees.
Roland Purcell conceived Greystoke Camp as a wildly exotic outpost. It's the ultimate retreat, sculptured from canvas, wood and thatch: no concrete, no plastic, no shops, no signposts. Service is attentive, but not over-bearing, and the living is very easy. Dinners are laid on the beach under the stars, on the mahogany dhow by flaming torch, or in the dining tent - a timbered Tongwe chiefs hut - the ultimate chimp exhibit.
The six double tents are sparsely decorated but include the finest linen sheets, down pillows, and hand-made wooden beds. Each has a forest bathroom for showers under the palms, though most choose to abandon their normal selves and bathe in the clear moonlit waters of Tanganyika.